Highpointer's Quest-Galdhopiggen (Scandanavia Part 4)

The next day we left the western fjords to head to the mountains. First though, we had to fulfil our obligation to take a swim. So, we both jumped right into a small arm of the Sognefjord. It was cold but not unbearable.

Our next stop was Spiterstulen, a private hytter in Jutunheimen National Park. We camped across from the lodge but we were able to use all the facilities, including a very cosy common area.

The next day, we began the long climb up to Norway's highest point Galdhopiggen (2469meters, about 8100 feet). This is right after the first sustained climb.

Here is a view of the lodge from above.

The DNT maintains most of the trails in Norway, and they spray paint huge Ts on rocks to show hikers the route.

I was surprised by how the area looked much higher than the actual elevation. It was very alpine.

As you can see, the weather was quite gloomy. There were many snowfields to cross which slowed us up a bit.

At the top, there is a mountain hut!

And, get this: there is a staffed snack bar! So, we bought a coffee and sat inside.


Here is my awful summit photo. It was very difficult to take because there were about 200 people milling about the summit. Seriously--it was quite awful. Apparently, there is an "easy" route (only climbing 600 meters rather than the 1400 our route required), over the glacier, from another trailhead, and several tours had come up that way.

Glaciers and Fjords with Peter (Scandanavia Part 3)

The next day we took the car ferry over to Bergen, the second largest city in Norway to pick up our friend Peter who flew in from Germany. Peter and I met 19 years ago at an EarthFirst! camp in Northern California. Somehow, across the years and the ocean, we've managed to maintain our friendship. However, we hadn't seen each other since my wedding nine years ago so we were very excited to catch up.

After picking Peter up without any snafus, we headed to Flam (pronounced Flawm), a small village along the Sognefjord (Norway's largest fjord) for the evening. Here is our campsite.

Then we headed straight for this building. It might look like a church...

but in reality it is brew pub! Poor Peter bought our first round and was a little shell shocked that he had just spend $35 on three pints of beer. Welcome to Norway!

The next morning, we took the world famous Flamsbana train up to Myrdal station and back down to Flam. This journey is widely known as the most beautiful train ride in the world.

There were many beautiful waterfalls along the way, and the conductor told a story of how beautiful nymphs are known to try to lure men into the forest to spend eternity with them.

Sure enough, when the train stopped at a particularly beautiful waterfall, some very hokey music began to play and out came the beautiful nymph! We couldn't believe this cheesiness! Luckily, neither Peter not Pat were tempted...

Later that same day, we crossed the Sognefjord, and traveled to Mundal, the gateway to Jostedalsbreen National Park and its many glaciers. Here is another campsite shot.

For dinner, Peter made a traditional German dish: dumplings. This happened to be a "pre-fab" version where we just boiled pre-made ones. Regardless, they were yummy.

Then we headed for our hike up to the glacier. Once again, we were reminded that everything in Norway costs lots of money. Parking at the trail head cost $4.

The trail was very steep, and, in some places, there were guide ropes.

After a few hours of climbing, we can to the unstaffed DNT (Norwegian Trekking Association) hytter. We stopped and chatted with some locals and bought a bit of chocolate (leaving money in the box, of course).

In order to get right up to the Glacier, we had to cross the stream flowing from it. The crossing can be summed up in one word: excrutiating! It was icy cold (go figure). My feet were in agony both during and after the crossing.

Drum roll, please. The Glacier!

Another view.


Peter felt compelled to get a picture of himself beside this little iceberg.

Hardangervidda Plateau (Scandanavia, Part 2)

On our first day in Norway, we headed West from Oslo to the Hardangerfjord (water) and Hardangervidda (land) National Park.

It rained during the four hour trip but we still stopped at what is, arguably, Norway's most popular tourist attraction: Voringsfossen, a waterfall with a drop of 182 Meters. And we learned our first Norwegian word--"Fossen" means "waterfall."

This is the top of the falls.

And the bottom half.

We stopped at the Hardangervidda National Park Information Center before camping and were charmed by the goats living on the gift shop roof. A cute tourist trap, for sure.

This is the view from our campsite in Eidfjord.

In the morning, we bought fresh baked bread from the campground hosts. We had also stopped by the grocery store the previous night and purchased several items that might or might not have been what we had hoped to purchase. For some reason, everything was in Norwegian! Here, Pat decides that the "cream" I had purchased for coffee was, indeed, something "cream-like," if not the exact thing.


After packing up and making a home in the Loftus campground, we began our adventure for the day: the very stiff hike up to the Hardangervidda Plateau.

We climbed quickly and were rewarded with a beautiful view of the Hardangerfjord.

After a few hours of tough hiking, we reached the plateau. It was stunning--very high, green and dotted with lakes, rushing streams and waterfalls.

This picture is a good demonstration of the landscape. It was totally different than anything I have seen; however, it did remind me a bit of the high country found in Montana's Beartooth Mountains.

After hiking some ways across the plateau, we came upon one of the DNT's (Norwegian Trekking Association) many Hytters (AKA cabins) that hikers can use for a small fee. Many of the Hytters are set up as full-service lodges (more on these later) but this one was small, remote and deserted.


As this picture demonstrates, the weather was starting to look shaky.

Putting on our rain gear soon proved to be a wise idea. We turned and finished the hike in the rain but, by the time we returned to the campsite, it was once again fine.

Visit to Tisvilde, Denmark (Scandanavia, Part 1)

Pat and I started our European vacation the right way: by visiting my brother Peter and his family in Tisvilde, Denmark. Tisvilde is a sleepy beach town in the winter but becomes a tourist destination for Danes in the summer. It is the perfect place to kick back, catch up with family and get over jet lag.

We arrived in Copenhagen at 7 a.m. local time, and, after we got through customs and made the drive back, it was time for one of their favorite traditions: breakfast in the backyard. Peter and Elisabeth keep a very warm home--we always feel totally comfortable right away.

Later than day, Pat and I took a walk with Peter to visit his friend's farm. This picture doesn't justify the beauty of the area. We had a nice cold beer and crisps (AKA potato chips).

The next day, the whole family (Peter, his wife Elisabeth, our niece Cielia and Misha the dog) took a walk along the beach and through downtown. The beach was practically deserted but Peter and Elisabeth said it was because the weather wasn't that nice.

The next day we went to the Viking museum in Roskilde. There were many interesting viking ships on display, and Pat and Cielia donned Viking attire. They made pretty good Vikings!

Then, we had a chance to sail a Viking type ship. First step: donning life vests. It is a shame Vikings didn't have those because it seems like many of their ships ended up on the ocean floor.

Somehow, Ceilia and I ended up right at the front of the boat. This meant that not only did all the rowers behind us have to keep our rhythm but we also had to keep a rhythm with each other. This did not go particularly well...

However, I thought I looked very Viking-like!

Meanwhile, behind us, Pat was in charge of the sails. I don't have a picture but Peter and Elisabeth lucked out--they got to sit in the very back and watch the rest of us work!

A good portion of our visit was spent just sitting around and catching up. I took this picture of Pat and Peter from our bedroom window.

I think we managed to ingratiate ourselves with at least one family member during our visit. On our last night, I came upstairs to find Misha cuddled up with Pat. Aren't they cute?